Restaurants and bars of Joao Pessoa
The following reviews and article have been provided by a variety of people who live or have visited Joao Pessoa. Please feel free to add your own comments at the end of each location. In general all the beach bars from Manaira down to the end of Capo Branco are all of varying quality from the coxinha type bar to the bells and whistles bar. One of them even sells JW Gold (well that’s what the bottle says) The more "upmarket" bars are in Tambau and Capo Branco. All the ones I have tried have, in the main, been pretty good value for money, though the Bahamas bar was unnecessarily expensive for what it offered.
The Beach Bikini Bar is open 24hrs a day except Mondays and is run By Harvey an American. I didn’t try the food though everyone seemed happy enough.
On the opposite side of the beach road are the bigger restaurants.There are some very grand restaurants which are very highly rated by the locals at the Cabo Branco end.
Terere was highly rated, always full and a queue waiting to get in. Its range included al a carte and rodizios of sushi, pizza and meat. I still haven’t been there.
A little further along is Fellinis or the piano bar. I did try this out and found the food to be a little above average but expensive. The Sunday buffet was particularly good. They have a resident piano player on a grand piano that can knock out a tune as well as the best of them.
There are several others too which I will put a name to some time, none of which will disappoint you gastronomically but will make your wallet frown. There are many sushi bars, too numerous to mention as well as Chinese restaurants (limited menu and not like those of England).
I was never disappointed in any of them though I have found a tiny sushi bar in Bessa at Bessa shopping called appropriately enough Bessa sushi which I frequent regularly. Interestingly, I was in a nobs and swells Japanese restaurant called Ippon and found the mall sushi to be superior.There are many gourmet restaurants which I haven’t tried yet but when passing they are always well attended.
Finally, Joao Pessoa is noted for its fish and to this end there is a very fine restaurant called Bargaço’s at the very end of Cabo Branco towards the lighthouse. There are very fine views across the bay. You will pay R$100 for a lobster meal but you will be left in no doubt about its quality. There are tables on a veranda which is right next to the road. This may not always suit the diner who has a keen eye on lead levels of food. Fortunately the restaurant is fully glazed with air conditioning. I have never heard a bad word about the place. There is quite a large car park adjacent to the restaurant with a public car park next to the beach on the opposite side of the road. Both are monitored.
Next door there is a cheaper restaurant called Ponte do Sol with equally fine views but the quality of food is nowhere near as good. It’s like putting a Mac Donald’s next to Nobu.
The off-road parking is limited and difficult though there is extensive on road parking which is monitored. The restaurant is open to the elements which some may find invigorating but others annoying. Live music is played several nights a week. In Manaira, just one block in is a very fine restaurant called the Casa do Baca lhau, it’s a homely Portuguese restaurant with excellent service, food, wine and atmosphere. Real cod, not the salted type, worth every penny. They even cater for children, providing colouring books and pencils. I would say 60% of the restaurants had someone who could speak English. I noted that in the Restaurant do Caju (also good and had a park for children) ran an in house English language course for their staff.
Bahamas
Without doubt, Bahamas is a landmark beach bar/restaurant which leaves people who have spent their holidays in Joao Pessoa with very fond memories. Strategically placed on the sea front at the junction of Tambau and Manaira, it offers spectacular views of the ocean in very comfortable surroundings. It is far enough back off the road not to be affected by road noise. There is parking nearby but be expected to walk to the restaurant. Live music is played every night with over exuberant dancing by locals and holiday makers taken in by the atmosphere. The restaurant has been subject to the Prefieturas reinforcing of the regulations about beach bar size. Some alterations have been made but it still retains its distinctive straw (palha) roof appearance. Buffet lunch at The Bahamas Restaurant on the beach in Tambaú. R$13,90 for three to four kinds of cooked shrimp, chicken and fish, veggies, salads -- all you care to eat! Also at the Bahamas, Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday evenings from 6p.m. to 8 p.m. - all you can eat appetizers for under R$8,00. The food was hot and replenished and attended to regularly. All in all, a good relaxing evening for you and your wallet.
Aroma restaurant
Very much the new boy on the block, the restaurant is located across the road from Bahamas . It’s in a building which was formally a casino and bingo hall. The façade of the building has been glazed in dark glass giving a very chic and sophisticated appearance. Parking isn’t a problem even in this built up area due to the restaurants own valet service. Our first impression of the place as we walked through the double glass doors was of the cold; such a contrast to the fierce night heat of Joao Pessoa. You then find your self with two choices; do you take the room with the low ceiling immediately in front of you or do you take the high ceiling room to the right. The room in front of you is meant to be more sophisticated and clean cut in style. There are large lounge settees down the left hand wall in bays where little groups can cosily congregate. Each bay area has a large screen TV and by and large the idea works. On our visit, people were gamely chatting and enjoying selections fro the wine list. The tables and chairs were at odds with the surroundings. They were comfortable enough but not the right style. The other room to the right was more informal. We were put off by the high ceilings and didn’t like the idea of sitting in a large hall. It had the feel of school dinners or lunching in a large church hall. The meal itself was very nice but not especially different. The portions were generous particularly the salad. Our small salad was enormous. As expected, it was expensive at nearly R$95. Would I go again? Well yes is the short answer. I would like to sit with friends in one of the bay areas, enjoying a yarn with some good wine. I could be tempted to titillate the palate again but I would have to see what the other diners were eating first.
Canoa dos camaroes
Located on the opposite of the road to Bahamas and a little further up from Aroma ( north to Manaira) from the outside it gives the impression of entering a traditional fisherman’s home. Parking is limited to street parking, so you may find yourself parking along the Manaira seafront and walking down to the restaurant. Fishing nets hang from the ceiling and the building itself is in the traditional style complete with summer garden. It has, indeed, a very homely feel. The waiters are attentive with out being oppressive showing that they are accustomed to tourists. Obligatory large screen TV waves at you but it didn’t interfere with the meal. We chose the famous Rodizio of prawns of nine dishes for R$20 a head. Note the price is seasonable but always visible. The prawns come in various sizes with an assortment of side dishes. You can eat for as long as you like till you split. We ordered and the meal started to arrive very quickly making me think they had huge vats of prawns stewing away in the back of the kitchen. Not really a problem as there were plenty of people taking advantage of the offer. All the dishes were very tasty. A musician played a very wide range of music. He was certainly appreciated by the assembled throng. We took what we couldn’t eat home in a doggy bag. Very well worth it.
Medievalia
Not a new restaurant as such, rather one that shut down and has now reopened as an up market Italian Restaurant. It’s on the Manaira beach front near the border with Tambau so it is very well located. You will find it on the opposite side of the road to the last set of beach bars in Manaira andTambau. It looks very pleasant too. I would only be critical of the parking but I did note a secure valet parking service was offered at R$4. However, would you let them park your Ferrari? Hmmm decisions? We timed our visit well bagging a seat with a sea view. The restaurant is tastefully decorated, if not a bit simple. Small paintings adorn the walls and everything is clean and tidy without too much fuss.
No special or high chairs for children. Toilets were found to be immaculate. We ordered a selection of dishes; my fish dish with ginger and vodka was particularly nice. Potatoes done to perfection as were the vegetables. My good lady wife, ever a critic in the gentlest of ways, praised her shrimp dish and the children’s meat dish. The wine list wasn’t as extensive as I had thought it would be, though it would get you out of trouble if you were taking a favoured client out for a meal. Overall, a very pleasant dining experience though not sure it was worth R$100
Casa do Bacalhau
We decided to try Casa do Bacalhau at Av. Franca Filho, 52 in Manaira, Joao Pessoa. The atmosphere is certainly upscale and the service really was impeccable. The waiting staff wear traditional Portuguese national dress and it really looks very elegant. There is a sign inviting you to inspect the kitchens, should you feel the need. The cod fish was excellent. Fresh Cod is used rather than salted Cod. We didn't have any wine though there appeared to be an excellent selection of wines in the eating area and on the wine list. We were surprised to learn that the maitre d' spoke English. We started with bolinhos de bacalhau for an appetizer which were delicious, but left you wanting for more. . The cod lunch, appetizer and two soft drinks and the gratuity cost R$55,00 or about US $27.00. My own advice is to steer clear of the meat dishes offered not because there was anything wrong with them but the restaurant clearly specialises in fish so take advantage of the expertise. Casa do Bachlhau is great for a special outing, anniversary, etc. Friday nights they have live Portuguese music. Children are catered for with free colouring books and pens. There was a large screen TV too but the volume was at a very comfortable level. There is a small amount of monitored off-street parking but you are more likely to find yourself parking on the road. This was an excellent dining experience (83)3247-6775 www.casadobachalhau.com.br contato@casadobachalaupb.com.br
Picui Praia
Continuing north along the Manaira sea front, we come to The Picui Praia Restaurant which is on Av. João Mauricio, 1395 Manaira (just before MAG Shopping). (www.piculpraia.com.br). Monitored sea front and side road parking is available. Note the parking can get in the way of the beautiful sea view. This restaurant has individual and family-style dishes with the flavour of the northeast. Everything from picanha de carneiro and rubacão, to peixe ao molho de camarão and peixe ao molho de frutas. Especially popular are the meat dishes which arrive at your table, sizzling with protest, on red hot griddles. Very spectacular, indeed. There are many kinds of aperitivos (appetizers) and complete meals start out around $R15,00 up to $R50,00. If you're looking for a traditional-style north-eastern restaurant with good service, good food and drink, this may be right for you. "Para quem curte uma cachaça tipicamente paraibana, temos a fava com caldinho, preparada especialmente para os que apreciam essa bebida genuinamente brasileira". TV screens are placed unobtrusively around the restaurant. Sundays are particularly busy.
Flash
There couldn’t be a more inappropriately named restaurant than this one which stands on the corner of Ave. J Mauricio and the sea front just one block down from MAG shopping. The restaurant has monitored off street parking as well as street and sea front parking. It benefits from the beautiful views over Manaira and Bessa beaches. The fully glazed screens are left open in good weather (most of the time) to benefit from Joao Pessoas famous light breeze. The restaurant is simply laid out and the forgetful staff are apologetic. Our simple fish and chip meal with soft drinks cost us R$52. I felt that it was probably at the limit of its capabilities and I was not confident enough to test it further. The people enjoying a drink on the sea front seemed happy enough which is probably the market for the restaurant.
China Praia
Just another black and red Chinese restaurant with everything floating in a tangy, dark sauce? It could be. However I think it tries to have an edge on the others and for that reason I would go back again. It is right opposite MAG shopping so competition is strong. There are two areas, the first of which is open to the road and very noisy. Lead levels of food are probably higher too though you do get front seats to accidents at the end of the famous Retao de Manaira. The rear half of the tastefully decorated restaurant is air conditioned. Chairs and tables are comfortably spaced and everything right. I had a quick flick through the overpriced wine list, to be expected I suppose. Nothing spectacular but it would help you through a too rich sauce. Most of the meals were for two people but we ordered two single portions with salad. What arrived at our table was enough to feed a small army. We ran out of space for the plates. The side dishes kept coming and coming. We even asked the waiting staff to check that single portions were ordered. Everything was hot, tasty and on time. We took the leftovers home in a metal tray. We had change from R$40. Excellent value.
Yassay
MAG shopping is home to several restaurants, but one that stands out is Yassay. It serves “oriental” cuisine and offers a number of seating options. You can eat in Japanese style on the raised dais at the end of the restaurant, an excellent idea but it would have been much better if they had taken advantage of the marvellous views over Bessa beach bay area. You can sit on the coffee bar type tables and chairs or in the upholstered bay areas.
Yassay is on the first floor and this gives views over the bay that other restaurants would cry for. Well, you do have the car park below but you don’t notice it with the sea begging for your attention. The menu offers a buffet including sushi or ala carte. Many people go there to watch the chef personally make up your order in front of you. He works in super hygienic conditions behind a glass screen but you can see everything. It is a “G” factor high. Lunch time meals are very reasonable at R#30 for four. A regular haunt and long may it continue to be so.
Dona Branca
Dona Branca's Restaurant is on the main road going north from MAG shopping, about a mile or so from MAG, on Av. Argemiro de Figueiredo, just past the cross street of Rua Lindolfo Jose C. das Neves. There are outside / inside tables. Dona Branca's is a great neighbourhood restaurant with a daily lunch buffet for R$12.00 which includes shrimp, chicken and some kind of unidentified red meat, along with spaghetti, veggies, etc. Pizza is also on the menu
If one orders at the counter you can look straight into the kitchen. There is a huge variety of cachacas too though I am not sure how many you will be able to sample. The only downside is that all bottle beer is the "long neck" variety, no 600 ml of Skol! They also have glasses of chopp - baby size and regular size. Friday’s and Saturdays they are open until 3:00 a.m. They open at 11:00 a.m. for lunch.
Dona Branca now has a website and they post pictures of their customers on it, the url is http://www.donabranca.com.br/v2
Villa Sao Paulo
Without doubt the place with the cleanest and most modern toilets in Brasil. The standard to which all others should meet. Why? Just go and find out. It’s a very pleasant restaurant bar with a large screen TV. This is an excellent place to meet up with friends, to stay and chat, almost like an English pub or even a wine bar. Light inexpensive meals are served with good beers and whiskies. At the moment they are advertising a “rodizio dos camaroes” for R$20.
Located just along the road from Dona Branca on Av. Argemiro de Figueiredo It opens at 18.00 and stays open until the last man goes ( more or less).
Tabua de Carne
Tabua de Carne, Av Rio Carneiro near Geo School offers a feast that would do any carnivore proud. Big healthy portions, such as Carne de Sol are wonderful and the fejao verde is to die for. So big that on our visit we had to take home a part of the meal in a doggy bag. The price, including my normal tray of caipirinhas was $R57 (ex tip) which for the three of us was very good value. A mixed meat selection of file, chicken and sausage is also very good value accompanied by mashed potato, green beans and rice. I know that some people say "Tabua de Carne" it is one of the best "cooked meat" restaurants in JP. The linguiça is absolutely perfect, in fact the whole spread is excellent. Sundays it is absolutely "chock-a-block" though if you go at about 11.30 you can get a good table. The wine list is to be recommended. Parking isn’t a strong point, though at the time of writing, a piece of land was prepared near the restaurant as an overspill car park.
Mangai
Mangai in Manaira shouldn’t go without a mention. Located half way along Ave Edson Ramalho, it is one of the most famous restaurants in the north east of Brasil. It benefits from a large off street car park and on street parking. Due to its popularity, you will be directed to other parks should it be necessary. It has a very large rustic style restaurant which apparently provides a sample of every type of north eastern cuisine. Over 40 dishes are laid before you in a large hall for you to sample. Each dish has an explanation of what you are eating in English. All the waiters are dressed in traditional fashion, without guns, and there is an air conditioned section too. Children are catered for and there is a little park next to the car park. You can join in the fun by poking your head through a screen painted with the figures of Lampiao and Maria Bonita and having your photo taken as the characters. No alcohol is served but they will let you sample the locally produced cachaça.. There is also a little on site shop where you can buy locally grown produce. The restaurant opens every day of the week at 7.00am and serves an excellent breakfast which is very different from the usual pastries that you find in the cafes. Other delights include a very light selection of tapiocas, breads and cheeses with a variety of meats. I had the mandioca bread with carne de sol and butter, no wonder it’s as full in the morning as it is for its afternoon and evening sessions. However be warned, this restaurant is very popular; queues are the norm though it ensures a good turnover of food. It is easy to eat too much. Highly recommended.
Degustar
Located at the junction of Ave Edson Ramahlo and R.Francisco Claudio Pereira in Manaira 83 3246 5545. A French restaurant with a vast selection of wines. It is owned by Chef Savio Parente (see his website) who thinks nothing of cruising the Atlantic in search of the correct ingredients for his creations. Enjoy and return.
Emporio Gourmet
Av Edson Ramalho in Manaira 83 3326 4720. To be seen in and the one to be seen to be seen in. This has to be the most talked about restaurant in the north east of Brasil. Exquisite wines from a very long selection, teasing appetizers of French macaroons, chocolates (not kitkats) and just down the road from Mangai and Dagustar.
Salutte
Just further down the road towards Tambau is an excellent self service restaurant called Salutte. It is more suited to buffets and afternoon eating, excellent quality food and very reasonably priced. Good parking too. Very clean surroundings always inspire me with confidence when eating. They say if the toilets are clean then the kitchens will be clean too. This place is spotless and they also take care of the children while you get your food. There are several awards around the place and photos of "Johnny do goods" shaking hands with the manager/owner/chef/man passing by, all good stuff in my book. As with many of the restaurants in Joao Pessoa you can see right into the kitchen area and are invited to inspect the kitchens should you so wish
Toca do Caju
I had the good fortune to dine in the newly refurbished restaurant callled Toca do Caju in Ave Navigantes, Joao Pessoa and part of the Pousada do Caju chain. Toca is also part of Pousada number one ( there are four, all close to each other). They have done a fine job of the refurbishment not only remodelling the dining area but relocating the kitchen. Wafer thin TVs, new play area for the children along with an excellent buffet area made for a wonderfully stress free early afternoon meal. There is a wi-fi internet area and outside a car parking service if you are lazy. The pousada ranks as cheap and cheerful but clean. You couldn’t do worse than stay there a night availing yourself of the many facilities including pool, gym, and library (with books in English) www.pousadadocaju.com.br reservas@pousadadocaju.com.br
Mandacaru
Next door to Toca de Caju (above), Mandacaru is very reasonably priced offering buffet and ala carte. Nothing out of the ordinary, the food was hot and fresh, the dining area, clean with a rustic finish. It was one of the few places where I have seen JW Blue on sale by the glass (R$60 a shot) Monitored parking is available on the restaurant forecourt and on street.
Casa Grande
Rua Professora Maria Sales no 705, Tambau. 83) 3247-1101domgustavog@hotmail.com. Its run by a very pleasant chap called Gustavo Gondin of Goias who came to JP and seduced by the beauty of the city decided to stay for ever. Such is life. The restaurant is very large and airy with excellent parking facilities. It passes the "G" test for hygiene standards and cleanliness. You can see the kitchen through huge glass screens. All the furniture is new; decorations pleasant and flat screen tellys adorn several walls. A fountain adorns the garden and is so low you can wash your feet there before entering the restaurant. The toilets are as immaculate as the toilets in Sao Paulo Villa, Bessa. Impossible, I hear you say but true). The restaurant also has WI-FI. There are plenty of well attired waiters, some of whom speak English. So if you have any difficulties ask for Luis and Carlos. The chef also speaks English. The good thing is they just bother you enough to keep the flow of your meal going, not hovering around like flies. There is a large play area for children and over indulgent adults. It includes two new pula pulas, a piscina da bolinhas, slides, rockydiles and an ice cream shack. There are several monitors whose sole job is to look after your treasured ones while you indulge. And indulge you shall for the food is nothing short of excellent and abundant. We had a dish for two which served four. The huge grilled fish steak was presented on a very fine dish with separate dishes for green beans, rice, farofa and joy. Tuesday night is Pizza rodizio night which starts at 7.00pm. However, any night after 7.00pm you can have a pizza made to your exact specs. No frozen dough is used, it is all made fresh, on site. So you can choose from a huge variety (20) of fillings and bases. Gustavo has been making Pizzas for 14 years. Just ask him personally for a special pizza of your choice. The cardapio is varied and includes churrasco and carne de sol and picanha with onions (which sounds better in Portuguese). The restaurant oozes quality and has a very relaxing atmosphere. There will be special evenings over the Christmas period and Gustavo is planning a blues/jazz harmonica night, once a week. There is a downside though and that is you have to go. How many times have you felt like that after visiting a restaurant? Neither did my wallet grieve at the parting of my hard earned cash. Out of 10, well I couldn’t find fault so it would have to be 10.
Olho de Lula
Opposite the beach bar of the same name, located half way down Ave. Cabo Branco. The restaurant is divided into three areas and has a nautical theme. Lots of ship lap boarding and panels reminiscent of a boat. The first area is an open patio right near the road. Several large trees provide shade and there are views of the sea. However, go up a few steps to the covered are of the restaurant and you will have better views of the sea. No air conditioning but a nice breeze wafts in off the sea. We sat next to the window and it wasn’t uncomfortable at all. A BBQ area is set up to the side of the dining area and you can watch your food being prepared. The rear of the restaurant is air conditioned and views from the area are limited. This restaurant has a speciality which is huge, grilled chunks of fish which tastes absolutely wonderful. Meat is cooked in another area and while we were waiting they were preparing lobster at R$75 a throw. We had single portions of the set meals for two. The portions were so big that the plates filled the table. We were spoiled and took what we couldn’t eat back home in doggy bags. All the time we were there a chap jollied us along with some old favourites on an upright piano. He was very good too adding to the cosy, convivial atmosphere. The cost of the meal was very reasonably priced and I would definitely go back again.
Terraço do Brasil
Located just down Ave. Cabo Branco, the restaurant building has been in the family for many years and was recently turned into a restaurant in 2008. When you approach it , the white front canopy gives it the effect of ship sails in the wind. Monitored off street parking is limited though there is also parking on the avenue and back streets. The front patio area is for smokers and offers good views of the sea. The house part of the restaurant is air-conditioned and very tastily decorated. All the antiques, paintings and handicraft objects are for sale. There is a huge chest of drawers combined with blanket chest for sale which has been in the owner’s family for many years. You won’t get much change from $15,000 (not Reais) I would haggle a bit. If I were you. The food was tasty but simple, if not a tad expensive. The portions were respectably small. Its nice to leave a place not feeling too bloated. A place to treat someone or be treated.
Yokan
Often touted as one of the better sushi restaurants, it is located on the corner of Ave. Indio Arabutan in Cabo Branco a few bocks back off the beach. It has the same tired livery of black and red which is typical of all the other sushi places. You have to park on the street and things can get a bit congested. If you take a table outside then you are going to be subject to a lot of road noise. It is fully air-conditioned with various table sizes for couples, foursomes and large parties. There is an upstairs too. The staff never ventured any help and we continually had to ask for things. We could have sat at our table all night without eating and drinking or hindrance from staff. I thought it was odd that tables were place directly below the staircase. Unhygienic, in fact and perhaps uncomfortable for those wearing skirts going up the stairs. . We were finally told we could serve ourselves and were shown to a sushi buffet where we could select from the delectables before us. Now here is the difference between Yokan and other sushi bars. The tables of sushi are at lower chest level convenient you may think at first, novel in fact, until you watch people select the sushi. They talk to the chef on the other side of the table and lean their faces right over the food. We were very selective about our choice as the sushi had lost its appeal. I am not sure if this factor would pas the “G” test. It is, without doubt a very popular restaurant and you do need to get there early, say around 7.30pm to beat the crowds. Always walk to the beach afterwards which is only a short distance away.
Marinas
Several friends of mine have asked me to try out Marinas restaurant about half way down the Ave. Cabo Branco. It’s on a corner, offers plenty of parking and every time I pass, it is always very well attended.
As you enter the restaurant, a soothing fountain awaits you and a band plays on a purpose made stage. It is very well planned. You can sit well away from the band but still enjoy the fine views which are a huge bonus feature of this restaurant. It seemed that every table afforded fine views of the beachfront including the band and fountain. All aspects, bar one, were open and subject to the famous Joao Pessoa gentle breeze. There was a glazed, closed in area presumably air conditioned which was set back and didn’t have quite the same views but like other parts of the restaurant, it had a huge 42" flat screen TV to compensate. The big screen TVs showed concerts but the noise level was acceptable for polite conversation. Without doubt it is a very comfortable restaurant with good solid tables and chairs (not the ubiquitous white plastic four set) and fine thick table clothes. And here is yet another point, not only does one have fine views of the sea but one can see right into the kitchen. Huge glazed screens separate the starving hordes from the chefs within. And have no doubt, one can see everything. My good lady wife and I had fish dishes; the children had kibes with potato puree. I don’t think anyone could criticize the quality of the food; perhaps it was so good that I wanted more and felt the portion could have been a tad more appreciative of my needs. That said though there was space for sweet in the form of caramel banana and a chocolate mousse. Was it expensive? Well, (R$100)25 pounds on a Sunday in England, especially in Buckinghamshire wont buy you very much, but here, in Joao Pessoa it bought all the aforementioned. I will add that I have spent the same sum in other restaurants along this same stretch of sea front and not enjoyed it half as much. If it were my restaurant I would find a place for the children to play or do as "Casa da Bacalhau" do and provide colouring books and pens. That will allow the children to dance to the band Terere. Where? On the Beach front, Cabo Branco. What, no more information? My feeling is you won’t need it. Terere is one of the most popular “be seen at” restaurants in Joao Pessoa. You know you are getting near because the traffic starts to slow down and queues form. It has a token car park but you have to get in early to use. You can only eat inside the air-conditioned restaurant where you can enjoy the spectacular sea views and of course be seen enjoying them. It is also popular because of the quality of the food and the rodizio. The Pasta / Sushi lunch costs about R$19,90 - again all you can eat (Yes, I love to eat)! The sushi is made fresh in front of you -- many varieties along with fresh salmon and shimp and other goodies. A real deal!! If you get the complete lunch with the rodizio (meat) it costs around R$35,00, but who needs the meat!
Sagarana
Sagarana is a very fine restaurant in Av. Cabo Branco no 3046. The restaurant name comes from a book by Guimaraes Rosa. Its on the corner of a huge piece of beachfront land towards the end of Cabo Branco (the quieter end) it’s only a few months old and was once a pousada. The building itself is a single storey traditional painted structure with fine verandas from where you can survey the beautiful sea view. There is plenty of shaded parking at the rear of the building so you don’t have to worry about the mad car park space watchers. There is a fine landscaped area, still in its youth and some mature trees for shade. A children’s area is promised for the near future. What of the food. Well, it is cooked by Chef Walter Aguiar and a fine job he does too. However, you pay for his services. My good lady wife and I had salmon dishes with sauces of ambrosian measure as well as sweets and drinks (bottled water, then pineapple juice) for the grand sum of R$106. The place was well attended and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves. A place for that special do, such as the opening of a bottle of JW Blue. There is a rodizio of shellfish on Tues,Wed and Thurs. at R$17.90 the cheapest I have seen so far in Joao Pessoa.
Praia de Jacare
One of the major stopping off points for tourists in the north east of Brasil is Praia de Jacare. They go to experience the sunset accompanied by the saxophone player, Jarundy. who plays his sax in a boat to the setting of the sun.
There are plenty of car parks and the locals will actively encourage you to park in their field. However, if you drive to the end of the road you will come to a very large car park to your left. Drive in and then drive to the far end with the praça on your left. Park up and walk across to the river. Will find a mini market of handicraft stalls and walking further along you will eventually come to the shopping area and restaurants. What better way to complete the sun set experience than to share it with friends while having a meal at one of the restaurants? There are several including Bambordo (nearest the mini market) which have jetties that jut into the river. Getting there early, around 4.00pm ensures a good seat and avoids the cover charge of R$3.00. Peruse the menu by all means but order in good time as the restaurant gets full and it can take as much as half an hour for your meal to reach the table. Well worth the wait, our sizzling hot fish dish including all the side dishes of rice, vegetables, chips and beans was ample for the four of us and very tasty to boot. Usually a band plays in the background until the resident saxophonist makes his appearance. Jarundy himself usually takes to a boat casting off from the shore or one of the restaurants. As dusk envelops the area, the haunting sound of the saxophone drifts across the river to the lapping of the water on the shore. Don’t worry if you don’t have a camera with you as a professional photographer is on hand to capture that special moment when you friend pays the bill. Failing that there is always someone selling excellent quality photos of the sunset. When it’s all over you could stay on and listen to the band. If it’s a Wednesday, you could also watch the folk lore dancers of SESC-PB. The show starts at 8.00pm.
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